My Designer Trifecta

Phoebe, Celine & Auralee - how I interpret their new collections

Hi Readers,

I know this newsletter is coming out a day late…I had to catch a last minute flight so apologies for the delay!

I don’t follow runway shows too closely, nor do I really write about them, but I can tell in a few photos whether I’ll be drawn to a collection or not.

It’s no secret that I’m a (Phoebe) Philophile. Old Cèline is one of the few brands/collections I can continue to come back to year after year and still be in love with so many pieces. Her design language during her Cèline era resonated with me deeply - unfussy oversized tailoring, perfectly proportioned structure, lived-in fluidity, mixed in with a bit of playfulness and oddity. Her designs seem to come from her lived experiences - she understood not only how the multi-faceted modern woman wanted to dress, but how they wanted to live, move, and feel.

Phoebe Philo’s Cèline campaign archives - the bags, the cuts, the pragmatism!

I haven’t been as drawn to the more recent Celine collections but I like many others, absolutely loved the new Celine collection.

I think it’s because it referenced what was great about old Cèline - clothes that are meant to support women as they move through their busy day, cuts and proportions that evoked a strong inner confidence, and a touch of cool fun - all updated with fresh optimism and it’s own distinct POV.

With any designer collection, the beauty lies within the details that aren’t visibly seen, but rather felt — the weight of an Italian double faced wool, the glove-like drape of a silk, the french seams that bind a perfectly crisp cotton shirt, the subtle seams that nip in a sleeve or a waist with precision. But with limited access to the actual pieces, what exactly are we drawn to when we first see an image?

While there are those “WOW” statement pieces that are impossible to duplicate, I find that with most great collections, the aspects people are most drawn to is the styling.

Whether it’s designer or the high street, the first instinct when looking at an outfit you love might be to think “How can I buy that?” or rush out to find the best duplicate. However, it’s a great idea to play within your own closet first to understand if you are drawn to an actual item vs an element of the styling.

It’s the difference between being a consumer vs an intentional observer.

It’s about taking the time to discern what you like, your tastes, and your own preferences. All of which can help you become a more informed shopper!

The said can-never-replicate pieces — WOW.

So today, I’m pulling out some key themes from three of my favorite brands’ recent Spring runway shows:

• Celine - newly helmed by Michael Rider who designed at Balenciaga, during the height of Phoebe Philo’s Cèline, and with heritage brand Ralph Lauren

• Phoebe Philo’s newest collection (D)

• Auralee, founded by Ryota Iwai, who founded the Japanese brand in 2015 and has quietly become a fashion industry favorite in recent years

Keep in mind that this is what stood out for me - you may notice different things and be inspired by other ideas. That’s the beauty of being an intentional observer!

my brand trifecta - Celine, Phoebe Philo, Auralee

It may or may not be important to note that Rider’s debut Celine collection was styled by Brian Molloy. Who is Brian Molloy? He’s best known for his influential work helping to shape the visual identity of The Row. (as in, those lookbooks and runway collections we all love)

Dan Levy at the Cèline show. What I love about this image and look is that it is so confident and cool but broken down, it’s elements we all know: timeless and always chic sunglasses, a well-cut jacket, a crisp shirt, lived-in jeans with the perfect rolled cuff, and loafers.

I was hoping to recreate some of my favorite looks using pieces already in my wardrobe but I was a bit short on time so I’ve instead pulled old outfits that nod to these ideas as a starting point.

If you are interested in how I would interpret some of these themes this season, please let me know in the comments and I can do a Part II :)

Now onto the styling!