Wardrobe Expanders
what they are and how to think about them
Hi Readers,
Today, I want to talk about this idea of “wardrobe expanders”.
The definition of “expanders”: A tool that increases the size or scope of something.
When it comes to our wardrobe, expanders are pieces that allow you to increase the levers you have in your styling toolbox while also broadening your scope, or style POV.
Everyone is on their own style journey and where you are may impact when or how you think about expanders:
This is a very loose observation based on what I’ve found for myself and in working with my 1:1 clients:
Beginning Phase + Familiarity Phase: Guidance and tools are really helpful in this stage as we are trying to build a foundation. We don't want to rock the boat so much that you don’t know which direction you are going. Most of any new pieces will feel expansive because it all feels so new! Most likely there will be a mix of true expanders and trend/impulsive buys (or rather, buys that don’t align with your style) during the learning curve.
Maintenance Phase: You start to outfit repeat more than you buy, you prioritize filling the gaps, but you also start to sense that your inner creative gut is guiding you to expander ideas. A “testing of the waters” so to speak to push the boundaries a bit from what you feel comfortable in. Maybe it’s a color that’s speaking your vibe or a styling technique you keep coming back to. This phase is about listening for and learning from that creative gut!
Creativity Phase: Now this phase doesn’t mean that you always get everything right, or that you can’t be creative in any of the other phases. It just means you are at a point with your style where you have laid the strong foundation, you’ve most likely filled all the gaps or know when you need to fill them, and now you prioritize listening to your creative gut. It may not all work and that’s ok — you crave experimentation and learning new sides of yourself.
I am definitely in my creativity phase!
Keep in mind that I went through the first phases in high school and college>went through my creativity phase in my early 20s>cycled back through maintenance phase in my 30s>and now back to my creativity phase as I enter my 40s!
In general, I like a sense of “lived-in” feeling for my wardrobe so the ‘maintenance phase’ will always be my comfort zone but my inner creative gut is telling me to get some new vibes in here!
I think about purchases in four main buckets:
Wardrobe Gaps - Purchases that fill a specific void or intent within your wardrobe. I call this “filling the gaps”. Think of them like puzzle pieces. They are the purchases that make getting dressed easier or help solve problems in your closet.
Emotional Buys - The pieces you can’t get out of your head. They may be impulsive buys but in the best use of that word. They tug at your heart strings and help you feel like YOU. You are instinctually drawn to it but may not even know why. They nurture your inner child. These are usually the pieces you hold onto and wear years down the road, even if they aren’t “in style”.
Expanders - Purchases that unlock new emotions, feelings, or vibes through silhouette, proportions, textures, even color. It could even just be an accessory. They are the seasonal injections, styling levers, or trends/ideas you have been craving but may not have a name for yet. The one thing I notice about this type of purchase is that sometimes it’s not an immediate “YES!”. Rather, it makes you think and get curious and you may adopt it at a slower pace or move into an entirely new direction depending on where it takes you!
How do you know if something is a wardrobe gap vs an expander?
A wardrobe gap should fill a specific need, or solve something that helps you get dressed within your lifestyle. And they can definitely also be expanders!
An expander isn’t a need from a practical wardrobe standpoint but it is a need internally. It fulfills a feeling you want to achieve or explore. Yes, you can still get a ton of wear out of it and it will solve things from a vibe perspective and it can help evolve your style forward but you could technically do without it.
So - I’ll share some wardrobe expanders I’m currently exploring so you can get a glimpse into my thought process and hopefully take away some learnings as you apply to your own wardrobes!
ps - I need your help with some try-ons…please share your inputs and vote down below to help me make some decisions!!
First, I have a confession to make.
I’m always talking about the depth issues in my clients’ closets but I’ve recently discovered a big depth problem in my own wardrobe.
TLDR: One of TFJ (The Found Journal) frameworks is Depth vs Breadth:
Depth = too much of the same thing or idea (too many stripe sweaters, buying another floral maxi dress, wearing crop denim etc)
Breadth = a range within a category or idea (jeans that are cropped but also straight leg and full length to wear with different shoes and dial up or down)
If we have too much depth, we lack true variety. By introducing breadth, we start to unlock range in our outfit choices.
My wardrobe expanders start to take place when I am experiencing a craving stylistically.
It’s usually subtle shifts in shape, proportions, or texture that can be felt more than they can be seen.
Lately, I’ve been craving a different proportion and shape with my pants. Not denim but my trousers and casual pants.
When it comes to my style, I think less about color and print and more about texture and shape. I think a lot about movement….the way a pant feels when I move in them.
Back in December/January, I started to experiment with this using what I owned and it definitely scratched the itch from a shape perspective.
I wanted to explore it further so here are a few ideas I’m playing around with!
1. Bermuda Shorts
I’ve really been into bermuda shorts lately. (in case you couldn’t tell from last week’s newsletter!). There is something so chill and unexpected and a bit sporty about them.
I know technically they are a short and not a pant but I would utilize them more like a pant. A dressy short!
Back story: I’ve always been more self-conscious about my legs. Ever since I was young, the amount of people that would ask me if I played soccer 😂 (no, I did not…)
I’ve never been one to not wear something just because of what others would think but I just have felt more comfortable in either shorter inseam shorts or a full coverage pant. Bermudas have always been one of those styles I loved on other people but felt I could never wear myself. Same with a pencil skirt!! They just cut my proportions off in a way I didn’t like.
But the beauty of getting older? You start to let go of insecurities and make room for…joy, curiosity, whatever you want!
So at 42, I want to wear bermuda shorts!! Even if it makes me look shorter!
What I bought: Esse Studio shorts
Some Before & After styling to show you how they visually look compared to my usual wide leg full length pants as I’m trying to unlock new shapes and proportions — keep in mind I don’t dress for what’s flattering, I dress for how I want to feel! The goal isn’t to try to sell you on the idea, it’s just to show how my brain works.
Now, let’s style it a few different ways from casual to more dressy because you know I’m all about versatility.
With any new piece, especially if it’s a new silhouette or something that feels less familiar to you, I always like to style with some of my tried-and-true favorites. This helps make sure: 1) You can incorporate it seamlessly into your existing wardrobe/style 2) You have an element of that “lived-in” feeling that grounds you while you try something new.
If you’ve been feeling a bermuda too…
2. Nylon Pants
What I bought: Tibi nylon crop pant (on sale!)
I love a good nylon and Tibi is the best in the game for this fabrication. I’ve sent a version of their nylon pants to clients and styled many in clients’ wardrobes and I think the only reason I haven’t purchased it myself is because I didn’t really need it as a lever.
I think when we see something we like but wait 6 months, a year or even two years, before purchasing it — it’s a good thing! It means the purchase is considered and has staying power within your style. And you like it for what it is and what it can do for you, not because it’s trendy.
Anyway, back to the Tibi nylon pants. I can’t believe I’ve never tried them on until now (?!) Again, I didn’t feel I needed it as a lever so I just never thought to try them on for myself.
This type of pant adds immediate texture and interest. Similar to the bermuda short, it also adds something unexpected and a hint of chill and sport to it.
The problem I’m coming across is I loved these as soon as I tried them on BUT do I reallllly need them?
Let me show you why and then you can weigh in….
I have these Zara pants. They…are not nylon but kinda give nylon vibes.
And I purchased with a completely different intent — they are extremely light and sheer so I wanted it for hot NY summers and travel to wear for more of a beachy, airy, relaxed feel. I didn’t buy them to scratch the Tibi nylon pant itch because I didn’t even know I had a Tibi nylon itch to scratch!
But they felt close enough to the Tibi pants I ordered, and I can argue myself into any purchase if I really want to, so I wanted to put them up against each other.
I always intended for the balloon pants to be styled more casual vs dressed up and the Tibi pants feel more like a dressy lever than casual so I wanted to see how they both looked styled the same way.
**Added: For those asking, blazer is Toteme. It’s part of next week’s newsletter but there is a size left so including a link in case anyone wants it! This brand runs big in outerwear so I’d size down. I also love their collarless blazer. And there’s a lot of options on TRR.
I did think about getting the full length cargo pant style but it would land me back in my “everything is full length and wide” problem in my closet but for any Tibi gals out there, let me know if you think differently!
SO! Before you get to voting, let me introduce you to my third and final idea…
3. Taffeta pant (the wildcard)
What I bought: Chan Luu Ultra Wide Taffeta Pant
You guys, it’s not just a regular wide leg, it’s an ultra wide leg :)
This wasn’t on my initial list of things to buy and try. I bought these as research for next week’s workwear newsletter and really tried to not like them (occupational hazard!).
I love a taffeta (I do own a straight leg in black from Donni that I still plan to wear once they are out of storage). I loved the Chan Luu barrel pant when they first came out but the cut never felt right for me and I more often prefer a true waistband.
It’s a wildcard because it’s a very different direction in terms of shape but what I’m drawn to is the elevation of it. I naturally prefer to overdress vs underdress and I like how the ultra wide leg has so much drama and almost creates a skirt-effect. Plus the color feels like an expander I didn’t even know I needed.
note: I got the size 1 but the rise is quite low so they are too small in the waist. I’m going to try the 2 but it may be way too wide in the hips so I need to see.
I put it up against the Tibi nylon pant because although they are very different in shape, they achieve a similar textural effect and lean more into the end use I’d style them for (social outings, travel, dinners, work events).
Ok, I think I know which ones I want to keep but now I need your help!!
ps - I took the tags off immediately for the first bermuda shorts so don’t tell me not to buy them lol
Let me know if this type of thought process analysis helps!
Thanks for being here - see you next Tuesday!!
xx,
Angie
I’m a lover of anything and everything gold, so I’m such a fan of the Chan Luu pants. Gold is essentially a neutral in the way that leopard/cheetah print is to me. As much as I like the Tibi pant, there is something very special and unseen about the Chan Luu pants, so they got my vote.
Angie I love this concept so much!! Your style spectrum rings so true for me and I also find myself in the creative phase (although nice to have words put to it). Can I say something crazy? My favorite between the Tibi/Chan Luu was the Zara pant 🙊 maybe it’s the balloon shape but I think it offers the most versatility while still looking modern!
PS- this was fun!